Singapore Guide

Eat

• Banana Leaf Apolo (opens in a new tab)

  Indian · Little India

  Indian food that'll blow your mind: long tables, loud people and fish head curry, the go-to here. My mouth's watering just thinking about it.

• Belimbing (opens in a new tab)

  Singaporean · Beach Road

  New-gen Singaporean cooking from The Coconut Club team, with chef Marcus Leow in the kitchen.

• Bukit Timah Market & Food Centre (interim) (opens in a new tab)

  Hawker Centre · Bukit Timah

  A good mix of all your Singapore food centre classics, now at its interim home nearby while the old centre is rebuilt. A suggestion from my mate Matt.

• Burnt Ends (opens in a new tab)

  Barbecue · Dempsey Hill

  Dave Pynt's wood-fired barbecue, run by Aussies and off the hook. It's not cheap but it's worth it: make someone else pay and get the big dog steak!

• Burnt Ends Bakery (opens in a new tab)

  Bakery · Dempsey Hill

  Sweet treats, savoury pastries and coffee from the Burnt Ends crew.

• Changi Village Hawker Centre (opens in a new tab)

  Hawker Centre · Changi Village

  Lunch before the ferry to Pulau Ubin. It's one of the more local hawker centres, well away from the hotels, and the nasi lemak was unreal.

• Chinatown Complex Food Centre (opens in a new tab)

  Hawker Centre · Chinatown

  Follow the queue: we found $1 'economic noodles' and, on a tip from a bloke in the line, amazing fresh spring rolls two stalls down. Cheap, cheap!

• Killiney Kopitiam (Orchard Towers) (opens in a new tab)

  Food Hall · Orchard

  I stumbled across this underground food hall short on time and it looked legit (it was): super local, I was the only white guy in there, and a mix of cuisines. I went Indonesian for a rendang and it was delicious.

• Labyrinth (opens in a new tab)

  Fine Dining · Esplanade

  Chef Han LG's Michelin-starred take on local Singaporean dishes, done with real finesse. It's a little hard to find: inside the Esplanade Mall, up the escalators.

• Lau Pa Sat (opens in a new tab)

  Hawker Centre · CBD

  Hawker centre classics in a grand old Victorian market hall.

• Lian He Ben Ji Claypot Rice (opens in a new tab)

  Claypot Rice · Chinatown

  On our list: claypot rice at Chinatown Complex.

• Mustard Seed (opens in a new tab)

  Singaporean · Serangoon

  A small eatery showing off the vibrance of Singaporean cuisine through a modern lens.

• Newton Food Centre (opens in a new tab)

  Hawker Centre · Newton

  The classic (as seen in Crazy Rich Asians). The chilli crab was amazing; wash it down with a Tiger over ice on a hot night.

• Sing Swee Kee (opens in a new tab)

  Chicken Rice · City Hall

  Singaporean classics. You'll find Hainanese chicken rice everywhere, but this is one of the best.

• Smith Marine Floating Restaurant (opens in a new tab)

  Seafood · Pulau Ubin

  Lunch after a kelong tour around Pulau Ubin, at the only place you can eat out on the water.

• Tiong Bahru Market (opens in a new tab)

  Hawker Centre · Tiong Bahru

  New for me on my last trip. Get the Hokkien mee from Hong Feng Fried Sotong Prawn Mee, first stall on the left at the top of the escalators.

• Tiong Shian Porridge (opens in a new tab)

  Porridge · Chinatown

  Where Sam and I had frog porridge on a breakfast mission. A crowd of locals told us it'd be good, and it was. Ordering's tricky, so just point!

• Toa Payoh West Market & Food Centre (opens in a new tab)

  Hawker Centre · Toa Payoh

  Some of the best laksa I've had in Singapore (I can't remember the stall!) plus a Michelin-recognised stall. Very legit.

• Tong Fong Fatt Hainanese Boneless Chicken Rice (opens in a new tab)

  Chicken Rice · Chinatown

  You can't come to Singapore without having chicken rice, and my favourite is from the Tong Fong Fatt crew. They've got a few stalls, so if you see the sign, get amongst it!

• Yu Kee House of Braised Duck (opens in a new tab)

  Braised Duck · Joo Chiat

  Cheap and cheerful braised duck and pork, and a local institution. No beers, sadly!

Drink

• Atlas (opens in a new tab)

  Bar · Bugis

  A beautifully appointed art deco lobby bar. A suggestion from my mate Matt.

• CÉ LA VI (opens in a new tab)

  Rooftop Bar · Marina Bay

  Go for the epic view and the scene from the top of Marina Bay Sands; leave before the $$$$ beers and cocktails add up. There's usually a cover charge.

• Lantern (opens in a new tab)

  Rooftop Bar · Marina Bay

  A great view over the bay and a good spot for the Marina Bay Sands light show. It's semi-fancy and not cheap (but nowhere is round here).

• Muddy Murphy's (opens in a new tab)

  Irish Pub · Orchard

  If you're after a creamy glass of the black stuff, this is the spot for you.

• Native (opens in a new tab)

  Cocktail Bar · Amoy Street

  Out-there twists on classic cocktails using local, native ingredients and boutique spirits from around Asia, in a beautiful little venue.

Do

• Chinatown (opens in a new tab)

  Neighbourhood · Chinatown

  Lanes of shophouses, temples and hawker stalls. Great for a wander and a feed.

• Cloud Forest (opens in a new tab)

  Gardens · Marina Bay

  I could have stayed in here all day: the waterfall as you walk in is spectacular, and it's a cool reprieve from the heat.

• Flower Dome (opens in a new tab)

  Gardens · Marina Bay

  If you love colour and orchids as much as I do, this is the stop for you. It's amazing what they achieve here.

• Gardens by the Bay (opens in a new tab)

  Gardens · Marina Bay

  An obvious tourist stop, but a really enjoyable one. It's spread out, never feels crowded, and is a nice break from the concrete and steel.

• Katong (opens in a new tab)

  Neighbourhood · Katong

  Old-world Singapore, with colourful shophouses and old teak architecture. An epic spot (especially if you love an Insta photo!).

• Ketam Mountain Bike Park (opens in a new tab)

  Mountain Biking · Pulau Ubin

  Great mountain bike trails on a beautiful nature reserve, popular with locals and expats.

• Little India (opens in a new tab)

  Neighbourhood · Little India

  I love this area: markets, food, smells and vibes everywhere. Take a walk and soak it up.

• Marina Bay run (opens in a new tab)

  Run · Marina Bay

  A path loops the whole bay (just under 5km) and you'll see plenty of joggers. It gets crowded, so pick your time.

• Naturalist Night Adventure (opens in a new tab)

  Guided Night Walk · Sentosa

  I enjoyed this more than I thought I would: a brilliant guide, plus snakes, scorpions, frogs and all sorts of critters. The path is mostly sealed, so it's easy for all ages.

• Pulau Ubin (opens in a new tab)

  Island · Pulau Ubin

  Escape the city on a quaint old wooden bumboat for hiking, mountain biking, birds and butterflies. Hire a bike on the island and take some food, as options are thin.

• Singapore Cable Car (opens in a new tab)

  Cable Car · Mount Faber

  We rode the cable car out to Sentosa and it’s a great way to see the city, the harbour and the island from up high.

• Singapore Oceanarium (opens in a new tab)

  Aquarium · Sentosa

  Great for the whole crew and an escape from the heat. I did one of their tank dives (a first for me) and the team was super professional and onto safety.

• Southern Ridges (opens in a new tab)

  Run · Telok Blangah

  A cool area to run: trails in and out of the forest, epic lookouts and (importantly) a few public toilets.

Shop

• ION Orchard (opens in a new tab)

  Shopping Centre · Orchard

  The big shopping centre on Orchard Road, handy for a browse and with a huge food hall downstairs.

Stay

• Dorsett Singapore (opens in a new tab)

  Hotel · Outram

  Where we stayed when I was working with Qantas: simple, a decent location, nothing fancy.

• Marina Bay Sands (opens in a new tab)

  Hotel · Marina Bay

  I've never stayed, but I've been lucky enough to visit the crazy infinity pool, which is normally for guests only.

• The Clan Hotel (opens in a new tab)

  Hotel · CBD

  Some of the team stayed here and enjoyed it. It's central and right in the mix of food and drink.

• The Fullerton Hotel (opens in a new tab)

  Hotel · Marina Bay

  On our list: classic old-world style and class. Worth a look even if you're not staying.

• The Standard, Singapore (opens in a new tab)

  Hotel · Orchard

  Where I stayed last trip: clean, modern, great rooms and a pool for cooling off (it gets busy). It's a little walk to the action.

Tips