Japan
Kyoto Guide
A clean copy of the places, for your phone or a PDF. Updated October 2026.
Eat
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Gyoza · Kiyamachi
Juicy gyoza, ice cold beer and a friendly vibe, what more could you ask for.
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Izakaya · Higashiyama
A family-run izakaya near Shichijo doing obanzai (Kyoto home-style dishes), teppanyaki and kushikatsu.
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Gyoza ChaoChao (opens in a new tab)
Gyoza · Kawaramachi
On our list: recommended and looks good.
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Hotpot · Kamigyō
Boar hotpot, served seasonally (only at certain times of year).
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Honke Daiichi-Asahi (opens in a new tab)
Ramen · Kyoto Station
On our list: I spotted it in 2023 but didn't have the time (or the stomach) for another bowl.
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Katsukura (opens in a new tab)
Tonkatsu · Shijō-Karasuma
Big and a bit commercial, but you grind your own roasted sesame and mix it with sauce for dipping, which is fun.
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Kishin Kitchen (opens in a new tab) 朝食喜心
Breakfast · Gion
Book a sitting. Fourteen seats, and the rice is the thing: you choose an artisan bowl before it's served. One of the best traditional breakfasts I've had.
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Izakaya · Kyoto Station
Hard to find, but worth it. Tip from a restaurant critic mate.
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Kyoto Gogyo (opens in a new tab)
Ramen · Downtown
On our list: the famous burnt miso ramen. It was closed for building works when I tried, but it's open again, so next time!
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La Madrague (opens in a new tab)
Café · Nijō
Famous for egg omelette sandos.
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Breakfast · Shimogyō
Japanese breakfast, and they run cooking classes too.
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Pizza · Philosopher's Path
On our list: a mate says it's the best pizza she's ever eaten, in a small, modern, elegant room.
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Mumokuteki Cafe & Foods (opens in a new tab)
Vegetarian · Teramachi
A vego café.
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Kaiseki · Oike
On our list: kaiseki.
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Nakamura General Store (opens in a new tab)
Bakery · Karasuma Oike
On our list: a small bakery and sweets shop (scones, cookies, brownies) near Karasuma Oike.
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No Name Ramen (opens in a new tab)
Ramen · Kawaramachi
A basement ramen shop with no real signage and hipster vibes.
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Izakaya · Okazaki
'Grab a spot at the bar, get friendly with the owner and you'll be in for an unforgettable night, complete with his house-made killer bee sake.' Tip from Ash Clark.
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Udon · Pontochō
Udon, a suggestion from a restaurant critic mate.
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Ramen Fukuchian (opens in a new tab)
Ramen · Nijō
A fun little 2023 find around the corner from our hotel, serving the thick style of ramen I love. The beers were good too (they always are at ramen shops, or maybe that's just me).
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Sakaba Ikura Mokuzai (opens in a new tab)
Izakaya · Nishijin
An amazing izakaya in a timber yard: the owner works the yard by day and the bar by night. It's small, so don't rock up as a big group, and let him choose your food.
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Spice Chamber (opens in a new tab)
Curry · Shijō-Karasuma
Loved it: Japanese curry from a rotating menu, so you just pick small, medium or large (cheese or no cheese). Great staff, great vibe and cold beers, plus it’s the lunch spot for young locals. I was definitely the only white guy in there.
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Yakitori · Nishijin
So much fun in 2023: juicy, nicely charred skewers (chicken neck is our favourite), cold creamy beers and a welcoming owner, Atsushi-san. Heads-up: smoking's allowed inside.
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Gyoza · Shijō-Ōmiya
A tiny spot with great Kyoto-style gyoza and cold beer. There are only a few options (gyoza, rice, pickles and miso), so you won't need the English menu.
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Sichuan · Nishinokyō
On our list: Sichuan, spotted in a mate's stories. Worth a visit if you want a break from Japanese food.
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Tempura Matsu (opens in a new tab)
Tempura · Umezu
On our list: tempura.
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Toyouke Chaya (opens in a new tab)
Tofu · Kitano
A tofu restaurant, open for lunch only.
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Japanese · Fuyachō
On our list: I want to go back for their steak dish.
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Wajoryomen Sugari (opens in a new tab) すがり
Ramen · Nakagyō
On our list: we didn't get here in 2023, but it looked great.
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Washoku Horai (opens in a new tab)
Japanese · Gion
Classic Japanese, spotted in a mate's stories.
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Yanagi Koji TAKA (opens in a new tab) 柳小路 TAKA
Yakitori · Gion
Yakitori and drinks on Yanagi Koji.
Drink
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Bar Tonbo (opens in a new tab)
Bar · Pontochō
A quaint little bar where the owner folds you origami to play with.
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Bee's Knees (opens in a new tab)
Cocktail Bar · Kiyamachi
An American-style speakeasy with excellent cocktails. Look for the yellow door marked 'The Book Store' with a bee on the mat.
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House of KI NO BI (opens in a new tab)
Gin Bar · Kawaramachi Nijō
The 'cellar door' for Kyoto gin KI NO BI. We had a delicious couple of martinis; try the full range, including gins you can't get anywhere else.
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Komorebino Natural Wine Bar (opens in a new tab)
Wine Bar · Gion
On our list: a natural wine bar in Gion.
Do
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Arashiyama (opens in a new tab)
Bamboo Grove · Arashiyama
A busy tourist spot, but the paid gardens and the villa at the top of the grove are worth it and much quieter. Time it right for a sweet photo.
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DONOMA Studio (opens in a new tab)
Pottery Class · Gojō
A little pottery studio where you make your own pieces. Book ahead; it's better suited to experienced potters.
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Fushimi Inari Taisha (opens in a new tab)
Shrine · Fushimi
The famous torii gates, and LOTS of people. Go as early as you can, or explore the quieter, lesser-known paths up the mountain.
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Neighbourhood · Gion
Kyoto's geisha district: wooden teahouses, Hanamikoji Street and the lantern-lit Yasaka Shrine. Wander at dusk.
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Hiyoshido Massage (opens in a new tab)
Massage · Downtown
Need a rub-down to help you relax? This is your spot.
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Kamo River (opens in a new tab)
River Walk · Downtown
Kyoto’s river runs right through the city, and the path along it is perfect for a morning walk or jog.
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Kinkaku-ji (opens in a new tab)
Temple · Kitayama
The Golden Pavilion.
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Lake Biwa (opens in a new tab)
Lake · Shiga
'Take the train north for a swim if it's warm. Get off at Ōmi-Maiko Station, turn right and walk till you hit pebbly sand.' Tip from a restaurant critic mate.
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Nishiki Market (opens in a new tab)
Market · Downtown
A narrow covered market stretching about 400m, with hundreds of food and homewares stalls. Remember: don't eat while you walk.
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Philosopher's Path (opens in a new tab)
Walk · Higashiyama
A canal-side stroll between temples. A tip from a restaurant critic mate.
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Suntory Yamazaki Distillery (opens in a new tab)
Distillery · Shimamoto, Osaka
Japanese whisky lovers, rejoice! Book a tasting and take the short train ride from Kyoto.
Shop
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Tea Caddies · Shichijō
Where I get my copper tea caddies: beautiful handcrafted copper, tin and brass tins for storing tea, plus other bits.
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Liquor Mountain (opens in a new tab)
Bottle Shop · Gion
Buy your booze here to take home (or drink!).
Stay
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Aman Kyoto (opens in a new tab)
Hotel · Takagamine
On our list.
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Hotel The Mitsui Kyoto (opens in a new tab)
Hotel · Nijō
One of our best stays in Japan. Complete luxury, amazing rooms and incredible service (and I guess it would want to be for the price!). If you’re looking for one of the best spots to stay in Kyoto, this is it.
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Machiya Inns & Hotels (opens in a new tab)
Machiya Stays · Kyoto Station
Heads up: this was a bad experience and we really didn’t have much luck here. The stay wasn’t as advertised, and there was insane construction going on right next door that we weren’t told about. We bailed out of there quickly.
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Rinn Shiki Juraku (opens in a new tab)
Machiya Hotel · Nishijin
We stayed here. A great traditional-style stay with a nice breakfast included, in a handy spot, just around the corner from my favourite izakaya in the world, Sakaba Ikura Mokuzai.
Tips
Getting there and around
Kyoto is a shinkansen ride from Tokyo Station. Once you are there, buses and the subway do most of the work, and Google Maps is the easiest way to pick the right stop.
Taxis work the same way as in Tokyo. Screenshot the Japanese address and show the driver.
Money and tipping
Have cash for smaller shops and ticket machines.
Tipping isn't part of eating out in Japan. Don't leave money on the table.
Etiquette
Tokyo and Kyoto share this Japan etiquette. The same notes apply in both cities.
Some key Japanese etiquette tips, particularly around dining, that are worth sticking to when you eat out in Japan, and especially at the more high-end places.
Don't double book. Plan ahead (that is what this guide is for) and don't put yourself on waitlists you may not make if the other booking comes through. Use a hotel concierge, a friend who speaks Japanese, or a booking service such as Omakase (https://www.omakase-japan.jp/en) or Tableall (https://www.tableall.com/).
Arrive early. Get there 5–10 minutes before your reservation, but not too early. Punctuality matters.
Allergies and aversions. Tell the restaurant when you book, so there is time to plan. You should do this wherever you are dining.
Dress. Smart casual. No shorts, no singlets, no thongs. Same idea as the sign at an RSL back home. Keep it sharp.
No perfume. This matters at a sushi counter. The meal is a sensory thing, the rooms are small, and you don't want to fill the room with it.
Voices. This one is hard for me, because I am loud. In Japan people are respectful of everyone else's space. Keep it down. There are moments when it is expected to be lively, like a few too many sakes with the locals at a small izakaya. Don't be the westerner who is kuuki yomenai (can't read the air).
Photos and phones. Ask before the camera comes out. A lot of places would rather you eat the food at its best than five minutes later, after the photos. Many rooms are phone-free. Don't take calls at the table or the counter. No flash, and no photos or video that include other guests. Keep the phone on silent.
Eat it when it lands. Sushi and tempura need to be eaten straight away. Don't wait for the rest of the table. If yours arrives first, eat it.
Countertops. If you are at the counter, don't rest a phone, camera or bag on it. A lot of them are serious wood or stone, and that space is for the food.
Chopsticks. Use the rest when you are not eating. Don't stand them upright in the rice. That is a funeral rite, and it is incredibly disrespectful.
Sushi. Chopsticks for the tsumami (the appetiser). Hands or chopsticks for nigiri, whichever you are less likely to drop. I use my hands. Eat a piece of nigiri in one bite. The sushi is already seasoned, so don't add soy unless you are told to, and then only dip the fish. Ginger (gari) is a palate cleanser between courses, not a topping. The wet towel stays with you so you can wipe your fingers between bites.
Tempura. Salt, tentsuyu (the dipping sauce) and lemon will be on the table, or a selection of them. Ask which one goes with which piece if it isn't clear. The grated radish is a palate cleanser, and you can add it to the tentsuyu. The shime, the last dish, tells you the meal is ending. At a tempura counter that is often tendon, tencha or kakiage. When I have had yakitori, the shime has been a small bowl of light chicken soup.
Ramen ticket machines. A lot of ramen shops take payment at a machine before you sit down. Insert your yen or you won't be able to order.
Markets. Don't eat and walk. Most stalls have a spot to stand and eat, and walking off with the food offends the vendors. Same with a drink in your hand. Don't eat one stall's food in front of another stall.
Queues. People wait in an orderly line for a train, a bus, a bowl of ramen or the till. On the escalator, follow the locals: stand on the left, pass on the right.
Groups. More than three of you and you probably won't be at the counter. You'll be at a table if there is one.
Smoking. You can still smoke inside at a lot of bars. I don't love it, but the ventilation is usually decent, and some places are non-smoking or have a smoking section.
A few phrases I actually use. People warm up if you have a go, and most will switch to English if they can. Good morning: ohayo (gozaimas). Good evening: konbanwa. Thank you: arigato. Please: kudasai. Yes: hai. No: iie. Sorry: gomen nasai. Excuse me: sumimasen. Do you speak English: eigo o hanasemasu ka. I'd like a beer please: biru o onegai shimasu. Same again: okawari. What's that: sore wa nan desu ka. Where is the toilet: toire wa doko desu ka. The bill please: okanjo o kudasai. Let's go: iko. I don't understand: wakarimasen. Please take me here, shown with a map screenshot: made onegai shimasu.
Download Google Translate and the Japanese pack for offline use before you go. iPhone: https://apps.apple.com/au/app/google-translate/id414706506 Android: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.google.android.apps.translate
References I still use: https://savorjapan.com/ https://www.tableall.com/ https://www.omakase-japan.jp/en https://jw-webmagazine.com/ https://www.eater.com/maps/best-tokyo-restaurants https://www.japan-guide.com/
Safety
Same as Tokyo. Take your shoes off where everyone else does, don't eat and walk, and carry your rubbish until you find a bin.